Alright guys, I have decided on a project car

"YSI-what can brown do for you" (ysi-what-can-brown-do-for-you)
10/26/2013 at 16:38 • Filed to: None

So I want a project car for under 5K, and my dad wants to have a sports car(I blame midlife crisis). This seems like a good choice(see above video, a Fairlady Z!). We aren't gonna get it for a few years, but I still want to learn a lit bit about the car before I get involved. Soooooooooooo anyone got any places to find said information. Not just its history and engineering stuff. Like how much parts cost, upgrades, stuff like that. Basically I need to know everything and I DON'T KNOW WHERE TO START!! Also, yes I started at wikipedia.

DISCUSSION (13)

ADabOfOppo; Gone Plaid (Instructables Can Be Confusable) > YSI-what can brown do for you
10/26/2013 at 16:44

[Indian Stereotype]

You guys obviously have money, why not have your dad help pay for mods to your FBRRSZ (Febreeze?), in return you can let him drive on occasion.

Got you an Auto-X together. It would be awesome fun time.

YSI-what can brown do for you > ADabOfOppo; Gone Plaid (Instructables Can Be Confusable)
10/26/2013 at 16:49

I let him drive when ever he wants, but he doesn't like the car. He says its too small for me, and that it rides to hard. Besides, they are sending me through school, so the least I can do is buy my own mods!

ADabOfOppo; Gone Plaid (Instructables Can Be Confusable) > YSI-what can brown do for you
10/26/2013 at 16:52

So many bad jokes...

I work for a Lexus dealer. We have many Indian customers. All the stereotypes are true.

I'm so sorry.

Sparf > YSI-what can brown do for you
10/26/2013 at 16:59

"Rides too hard"

He's not going to like driving an old Z then, since if you want to build up one of those you're going to want to make things stiff old school style.

GhostZ > YSI-what can brown do for you
10/26/2013 at 17:04

NICO, Ratsun, Zcar.com, HybridZ are your friends.

What is the goal of this project? Pure speed? Looks? Drivability?

The weakest part about the Nissan S30 is its engine. It's a 2.4 - 2.8l non-crossflow SOHC straight six. It's smooth, incredibly reliable had one of the best fuel injection systems of its time, and loves to stay in high RPMs.... but it was an extremely old engine when they first put it in the Z, and does not make much power stock, and modifications a pretty tough. To bring it up to spec (of even the time it was new) you need to put in about $15,000 into the engine.

The parts are good for up to 300HP before you need to replace major components, but getting it to 300HP without a turbo or nitrous is basically impossible. You'd need completely custom fabrication.

Suspension can be left alone. It's great. Maybe new bushings and stuff, but that's pretty much it.

Here are some price estimates at picking up a car:

Year: Ideal price / Great condition price / DD price / some rust / not running / lots of rust

1969-1971 series 1: $20,000 / $15,000 / $8000 / $6000 / $2000 / $600
1971-1973 later years: $15,000 / $12,000 / $7000 / $5500 / $2000 / $500
1974 260z: $17,000 / $14,000 / $7000 / $5500 / $2000 / $500
1975-1978 EFI 280z: $14,000 / $10,000 / $4500 / $1500 / You won't be able to even sell it.

Kits you can buy for engine swaps:

1. SR20DET
2. Chevy 350 (first gen)
3. Chevy LT1
4. Chevy LS1
5. RB25DET / RB26DETT

So here's the rundown:

If you want an investment, go with the Series 1 240z, expect to pay more, but if period-correct restored, it's worth a lot.

If you want a resto-mod to resell, go with a later 240z and make it fast .

If you want cheap speed, a daily driver, any modifications that aren't stock or restoration, go with a 280z. Stay away from 260z unless you find a good deal. They're valuable, but not good for projects if you don't know how to restore them to period-correctness.

The Dash, if uncracked, is worth ~$2000 alone.

If you find a crankshaft from a Nissan Maxima Diesel, you can stroke your motor (from a 2.8) to around 2.95l

The rear differential in the 280z is an R200, and is vastly superior to the R180 in the years before it.

The 280z weighed a little more than the 240z, but that was due to the added crash protection, sound deadening, better differntial, 5-speed transmission, and bumpers (which were about 300lbs). Remove the bumpers, and you've got a car that is only marginally heavier than a 240z, but vastly superior in all other aspects.

Rust is your ultimate killer .

Ask me questions. I will give you answers. I have spent years researching these cars to plan for my own project.

YSI-what can brown do for you > Sparf
10/26/2013 at 18:07

Shhhhhh, don't tell him, he won't get on board then!

YSI-what can brown do for you > GhostZ
10/26/2013 at 18:37

It is going to be a mix of all three. I don't want it too be a full on track car but, I want to be able to drive it around town and back roads, and for it to destroy on a track. I also want it to look awesome, but that will come with the speed.

I am not thinking about restoring to stock, I was thinking more of upgrading it making it my car. This will probably when I have a real job! So money will be flowing in. My dad also has a job(obviously) and he won't have things to worry about.

I will be asking you more question down the road, but right now you just assaulted me with so much info!

One last question, how much do you think an RB26DETT swap going to be? It can't be cheap can it?

GhostZ > YSI-what can brown do for you
10/26/2013 at 19:00

http://arizonazcar.com/ For hard core suspension, but handling shouldn't need to be improved beyond bigger wheels and fender flares. The ZG / Z432 style flares will accomodate most racing rubber.

You can get an LSD out of an S13 and convert it for the Z. They're the same basic diff, but the S13 had an LSD version. If you need big power, the R230 (300ZX twin turbo) is physically larger than a Ford 9" and is basically indestructible.

Swap costs:

1. SR20DET: ~$6000 @ 220HP
2. Chevy 350 (first gen) ~$2000 @250HP
3. Chevy LT1 ~$2500 @300HP
4. Chevy LS1 ~$3000 @350HP
5. RB25DET ~$10,000 @300HP
6. RB26DETT ~$20,000 @330HP
7. Ford Windsor (302/351) ~4,000 @220HP (there's no mounting kit, otherwise it would be cheaper than the small block)

Weight changes:

1. SR20DET: -100lbs
2. Chevy 350 (first gen) +60 lbs
3. Chevy LT1 + 50lbs
4. Chevy LS1 +40lbs
5. RB25DET +30lbs
6. RB26DETT ~$20,000 +40 lbs
7. Ford Windsor (302/351) -30 lbs

If you put an extra $5000 into the stock motor, here are some realistic estimates while still being road-worthy:

1. SR20DET: ~$11000 @ 320HP
2. Chevy 350 (first gen) ~$7000 @350HP
3. Chevy LT1 ~$7500 @400HP
4. Chevy LS1 ~$8000 @500HP
5. RB25DET ~$15,000 @500HP
6. RB26DETT ~$25,000 @650HP
7. Ford Windsor (302/351) ~9,000 @400HP

Really, this is the tip of the iceberg of what I know. I have spent way too much time researching these cars.

cbell04 > YSI-what can brown do for you
10/26/2013 at 19:06

I've been drooling over this Z in my local craigslist all week. Even the lady walking by can't look away! http://rochester.craigslist.org/cto/4121596744…

Kinja'd!!!

YSI-what can brown do for you > cbell04
10/26/2013 at 19:12

5K isn't to bad, it looks like its in really good. See this is why I want one of these!

YSI-what can brown do for you > GhostZ
10/26/2013 at 19:17

I am not sure where you are from but, are the RBs so expensive because their aren't many in the US or is because they are actually that expensive? Because as it is right now the price makes my wallet hurt.

GhostZ > YSI-what can brown do for you
10/26/2013 at 19:26

RBs are already expensive around the world, but since virtually no US car had one every single engine part has to be imported from Japan. These import motors are usually pretty fried and have to be rebuilt once you get them. Best case, you tear it down and clean it and re-assemble it, and it fires. Worst case, in tearing it down you find that the block is DOA, and you can't return it to Japan. If you have more money, you might be able to get a Skyline and import the front clip, but I hope you know someone in Japan or Australia to find one for you., and shipping is insane.

Next, to fit an RB26, you need the RB25 transmission, adapter plate, and oil pan, plus expensive mounts, wiring harnesses, standalone ECUs, throttle and transmission linkages, new gauges, plus everything else that you would need in another swap.

They're really quite absurd in cost, and have never really been cheap. It's totally possible, but to do it right, expect dropping $20,000, half on the engine and transmission, and the other half on all the stuff it costs to fabricate to make it work.

By contrast, a Chevy V8 is pretty much turnkey and analog, and they are absurdly cheap in junkyards and used cars.

Lemonhead > YSI-what can brown do for you
10/26/2013 at 20:55

I like the choice. I am considering it as my second project after the truck. There is a cool video on petrolicious about a guy and his Z